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Food & Wine Expert
Wayne Smith
Arts & Culture Expert
Dianna Fritzler
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Bill Haggerty
 
Food & Wine Expert
 
 
 
Affectionately known by the locals as “Chef Wayne,” Smith walked into his first professional kitchen at the age of 15 and has been pleasing palates ever since. He's worked in California and Hawaii, but now lives, cooks and teaches the culinary arts in Grand Junction. It's a place known for great restaurants, chefs, local produce and Colorado-grown wines – and Smith's “in the know” about them all.  Read full profile
Date Published: 05/02/2009
Today was a day for yard work and Cinco de Mayo celebrations on Main Street, but the weather had other plans. Soaking wet, muddy, and hungry, Lisa and I headed for Taqueria Guadalajara at the corner of 7th and Pitkin for plates full of tacos. TG has to be one of the worst kept secrets in town. They do a brisk lunch business, particularly on weekdays, with satisfied customers ranging from construction workers to business professionals. With five tables inside and a couple of picnic tables outside, seating can often be at a premium. Fortunately, the food comes out fast and everyone eats like they are in a NASCAR pit stop, so tables open up quickly. Too often, Mexican restaurant fare can end up a gloppy mess of bland beans, overcooked rice, and unidentifiable food-like substances suffocating under a mass of melted cheese. That is not the case here. These tacos are light, lively, and flavorful. At $1.50 each they are also a great deal. The tacos arrive flat and open-faced on snack-size corn tortillas. Tortillas are the foundation of a good taco, and these are among the best. Made on the premises, they are substantial yet tender, flavorful and moist, and just solid enough to hold in the fillings to the last bite. The choices for fillings are no-nonsense meat: asada, barbacoa, carnitas, buche, beef, lengua, and chicken. My favorites are barbacoa, carnitas and lengua (tongue). The barbacoa is beefy with a great depth of flavor. The carnitas have that great combination of salt and pork fat. The lengua, when properly prepared, is one of the most tender and flavorful cuts you can eat, and this is as good as any I’ve had. Finally, you can get your choice of garnishes, traditional cilantro and onions or lettuce and tomato. If you ask, you can also get cheese. I tend to stick with cilantro and onions, but lettuce and tomato is a nice complement to the chicken tacos. The tables are set with salt and salsa verde, which is all these tacos could possibly need. In addition to tacos the menu features burritos (the chile relleno version is excellent), quesadillas, tamales, and menudo on Saturdays. Beverages include the usual fountain drinks, bottled sodas from Mexico, and agua frescas (horchata, jamaica, and tamarindo). Taqueria Guadalajara is open Monday-Friday from 10:00-7:30 and Saturday from 10:00-5:00.
 
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