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Wayne Smith
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Affectionately known by the locals as “Chef Wayne,” Smith walked into his first professional kitchen at the age of 15 and has been pleasing palates ever since. He's worked in California and Hawaii, but now lives, cooks and teaches the culinary arts in Grand Junction. It's a place known for great restaurants, chefs, local produce and Colorado-grown wines – and Smith's “in the know” about them all.  Read full profile
Date Published: 05/08/2009

Sunday will be Mother’s Day, otherwise known in the industry as “The Busiest Day of the Year”. If you plan to take the mothers in your life out to eat on this special day and have not yet made reservations, do so. Now. Most restaurants will be filled to capacity and most groups dining out will be relatively large, making it difficult to just breeze in and be seated.

Many restaurants, astutely observing that masses of people will be compelled to eat out, offer special buffets at prices a little or a lot higher than their normal fare. Loyal reader, Chad, asks where he can take mom for an affordable Mother's Day meal. If you are able to dine early Good Pastures is offering a breakfast buffet from 7-10 a.m. ($8.95 adults, $3.25 children) before their full on brunch kicks in. I know Chef Dave there, he is dedicated to serving a quality product. Good Pastures is not taking reservations, so plan on arriving early. Another affordable option is Spoons Bistro & Bakery in the Hospice Care Center. They are offering a full brunch buffet from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. for $11.95, roughly half the price of many other brunches around town.

It may already be too late to get a reservation at 626 on Rood, but it would be worth keeping in mind for Sunday brunch a week or two from now. (Note to college graduates: Mom and dad are coming to town next weekend. Show them how sophisticated college has made you and suggest a celebratory brunch at 626. Score bonus points by telling mom that this must really be Mother’s Day since she is now here.)

Theo and Brenda and their crew are new to the brunch scene, having just started serving brunch about a month ago, but they are an instant top choice for Sunday dining. Brunch here is about quality over quantity. Not that portions are small, because they are not.

The menu includes expected brunch items such as variations on Eggs Benedict, omelets, and stuffed crepes as well as items from their lunch menu including the excellent Cuban pork sandwich and a burger. I haven’t tried the burger, but when I do I will order it with the optional foie gras. The French fries for both sandwiches are made from fresh potatoes and unlike the fast food mutations they actually taste like potatoes, imagine that!

The eggs are local, coming from Cackleberry Farms in Loma, and on the Benedict they are poached to perfection, the whites firm and the vivid orange yolks languidly oozing out when summoned by the fork. The doughnut waffles are light-as-clouds, crisp on the outside with a tender center. Paired with the peppered bacon they make a great brunch appetizer to be shared at the table.

Speaking of bacon, Brenda has concocted a bacon Bloody Mary, with a house-made bacon infused vodka and a crisp bacon strip garnish. If that sounds strange, think of the classic bacon and tomato combination in a BLT. Brenda also whips up a tasty Mimosa from fresh squeezed orange juice and rosé Cava. The Mimosas are available in a “limitless” format for $15, although the way our table downed them like cups of water at a jalapeno eating contest, she must be having second thoughts about that offering.

Now call your mother. She may have already read this.

 
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