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To be honest, I hate change. So when I heard that a longtime favorite pizza and sandwich joint on Horizon Drive, Diorio's, had sold and was being remodeled, I was less than thrilled.
Diorio's was the home of my favorite sandwich in town, a hot pastrami and provolone served on a housemade Italian roll. The pastrami was fatty and flavorful, held together by the melted, oozing provolone. The roll was tender-chewy with a crisp crust, smeared with brown mustard. The sandwich was made from good ingredients, but what really made the sandwich work was the method of preparation. The meat and cheese were warmed together in the pizza oven until they became one, then -- and only then -- were they inserted into the fresh bun.
It was one of those things you could count on, even when nothing else went to plan. Are you feeling my pain?
Now to be fair, there is also a Diorio's on North Avenue that makes an equally impressive hot pastrami, but the Horizon location had beer!
So along came Enzo's to replace Diorio's. I heard from a trusted source that the remodel looked good. Along with Diorio's, they had taken over the space next door that was formerly a barbecue restaurant and turned it into a dining room.
The night we went, Enzo's was busy. The old pizza/sandwich counter remains, and several people were on line for takeout. We stepped into the new dining area and were impressed by attractive wood and stone work. There are several booths, a banquette and a bar, complete with two flat screens for sports. The volume on the TVs was kept low enough to not interfere with dining. The remaining floor space was filled with tables and chairs. Perhaps one too many tables, but margins are slim in our business and owners are loathe to turn away business.
We skipped the wine list and went for tap beer from a nice selection. The menu now features traditional Italian restaurant entrees and pastas, salads, pizzas and (yes!) sandwiches. I ordered the Agnolotti -- raviolis filled with cheese, basil and roasted garlic in a tomato cream sauce with a pleasant crushed-red-pepper kick. The pasta was good, the sauce great. When I asked our server for bread to mop up the extra sauce, she brought out what they call "garlic knots," a kind of braided dinner-roll version of garlic bread. The rolls were tender and tasty, topped with what looked like Dijon mustard, but turned out to be perfectly smooth, rich and creamy roasted-garlic puree. The combination, dipped in creamy tomato sauce, was pure eating pleasure.
Lisa ordered the hot pastrami and provolone. I am very happy to report that the owners of Enzo's have wisely decided to not change my old favorite. That alone will bring me back.
Enzo's is located at 759 Horizon Drive, in the shopping center just south of the Grand Vista Hotel, and is in easy walking distance of several area hotels. Most entrees are under $15 with soup or salad, and sandwiches are $6-8.
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