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By Julian Smith
The red-rock Colorado National Monument
The red-rock Colorado National Monument
In a region known for vast, spectacular national parks, such as Arches and Canyonlands, Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction might seem like the outdoor afterthought of the Colorado Plateau.

Even though it's small, this 31-square mile reserve boasts a concentrated version of the redrock expanses, deep canyons and sandstone towers that draw millions to the more popular parks in nearby southern Utah. Best of all, since it sees much less traffic, it's easy to have most of the monument to yourself.

To best explore your temporary private retreat, start on Rim Rock Drive. This historic 23-mile route is the only paved road through the monument. Access this from either the west entrance near Fruita, or the east entrance near Grand Junction. Either way, you'll climb from Grand Valley along the Colorado River up onto the brilliantly eroded Uncompahgre Plateau, dipping into and out of Monument, Ute, Red and Columbus Canyons along the way.

The road makes an excellent road bike ride as well. Mountain bikers should head to Fruita for trails that rival those in nearby Moab.

Make sure to leave time for the numerous overlooks above the high-desert scenery that seems at times more vertical that horizontal. Stop at the monument visitor center near the Saddlehorn Campground at the northern end of the road for up-to-date information.

Chris Capp of Summit Canyon Mountaineering in Grand Junction says that
A view accessible only by hiking
A view accessible only by hiking
hiking is the best way to get into the backcountry. In all there are 13 backcountry trails into the far reaches of the monument, ranging in elevation from 4,700 to more than 7,000 feet.

"The Monument Canyon Trail leads to the classic tower that many people climb," Capp says. "You can hike it down from the plateau or up from Highway 340." The six-mile trail winds down the monument's longest canyon, passing a number of gigantic rock formations along the way.

After the steep 600-foot descent from Rim Rock Drive, you'll pass the Coke Ovens, a series of large buff-colored mounds, as well as the Kissing Couple (use your imagination) before reaching 450-foot Independence Monument. Keep an eye out for climbers on the mushroom-topped spire.

Capp also recommends the Liberty Cap Trail, which meanders across Monument Mesa for 5½ miles to a distinctive stone outcrop overlooking Grand Valley. "It's on top of the plateau instead of down in a canyon," he says, "so it's not as steep and has lots of good views."

If you're up for it, keep going another 1½ miles past Liberty Cap for a steep descent into Grand Valley and out of the monument. Passing through sagebrush flats and pinyon-juniper forests, this trail is also a favorite of horse riders and cross-country skiers in winter.

For a taste of history, take the Serpents Trail near the
Independence Rock
Independence Rock
eastern entrance. Once the original route onto the Monument, this aptly named path has more than 50 switchbacks in 2¼ miles. It was built in the early part of the 18th century by John Otto, who explored the high country when even most locals thought the canyons were inaccessible to humans.

Today, Otto's Trail leads half a mile along a ridge from Rim Rock Drive to the Pipe Organ formation. Other short paths worth a stroll are the Window Rock Trail, a quarter-mile loop with great views of stone towers, and the Canyon Rim Trail, which skirts the edge of colorful Wedding Canyon. Reach the Devil's Kitchen, a boulder-ringed grotto, from the east entrance along a 3/4-mile trail of the same name.

You can see the La Sal Mountains and the canyon country of neighboring Utah from the Black Ridge Trail along the western edge of the monument. This 5½-mile, one-way trail is the highest in the monument, and briefly crosses into adjoining Bureau of Land Management land.

If you're ready for an adventure, head down Ute Canyon from Rim Rock Drive. It's about seven miles to the monument's eastern edge near Liberty Cap. A developed trail takes you down a rough descent into the ravine. It's about seven miles to the monument's eastern edge near Liberty Cap. From here you're on your own; follow the streambed, which may be dry or have seasonal pools after rains, and keep an eye out for natural arches along the canyon walls.

For more information about the Colorado National Monument, visit www.nps.gov/colm or call 970-858-3617. The monument is open daily, $7 per car for one week.
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